The Undiscovered Side of Florence, Oregon Jarastyle travel

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The Undiscovered Side of Florence, Oregon Jarastyle travel

by Adam Sawyer

Visit anywhere enough times and you’ll attain a level of familiarity that might lead to an inflated sense of comprehensive knowledge. I, for example, have visited the Oregon Coast for varying durations and in numerous capacities far more times than I have fingers. And I like to think that I “know” the area commensurately. 

That said, a recent trip to Florence, Oregon, reminded me that with regard to what I think I know, once again, I’m forced to consume an ample helping of humble pie. I like to hike, paddle, eat, drink and call eclectic lodging locations home when I travel—and I thought I had a good handle on what Florence had to offer in those categories. But a chance booking at a riverside yurt prompted me to throw what I knew about Florence out the door. And when you do that, places tend to reveal a little more. 

Take the Siltcoos River Canoe Trail, for example, a scenic, 3-mile-long paddle that begins at Siltcoos Lake. The waterway leads through stately old-growth coastal forest, wildlife-rich estuaries and alongside the imposing Oregon Dunes before arriving at the Pacific Ocean. Sure, you could rent a kayak at the lake—absolutely nothing wrong with that. But you could also make your home base one of the lodging options a stone’s throw from the river and start from there. Or, as was the case with me, you could stay in a luxury yurt that comes with kayaks, right on the banks of the river at the Siltcoos Lake Resort & Kayak Rentals.

The Undiscovered Side of Florence, Oregon Jarastyle travelThe yurt comes outfitted with a queen bed, a futon, kitchen, utensils, bathroom, shower, linens, Wi-Fi, BBQ, deck, fire pit and even climate control. And a set of otherwise rentable kayaks also come with a stay at the yurt—and they’ve got more if you need them. Right there on your own private dock, stumbling distance from the front door.

If you need a post-paddle leg stretch, the Siltcoos Lake Trail forms a 4.2-mile loop hike just a mile and a half from the yurt. The outing starts just off Highway 101 but gets wild, scenic and quiet in a hurry. Lush forest and lake views are the highlights. But the surprising potential for solitude, especially given its location, ranks a close second.

Another wondrous spot is the Exploding Whale Beach Camp, whose name is an homage to the notoriously ill-fated attempt at deceased whale removal in 1970. The camp allows visitors to choose from a set of vintage Airstream trailers to serve as a home away from home. Tucked in among the beach-loving shore pines, the trailers come with all the needed amenities in a classic and cozy, elongated presentation that’s a short walk from the water. 

The Undiscovered Side of Florence, Oregon Jarastyle travelVisitors to the camp have access to a pair of fat-tire beach bikes, but hikers will find a wonderland awaiting outside the trailer. While there is an official “Hobbit Trail” just north near Heceta Head, the immediate environs surrounding the Exploding Whale Camp are home to a number of local paths known as hobbit trails. Each one carving mysterious tunnels through deep thickets of salal that transition into tight, dune ascending paths where miles of expansive beach in either direction make a welcomed final reveal and reward for your efforts.

To get a more complete sampling of the remarkable diversity within the dunes, head south about 15 miles and take a hike along the Tahkenitch Creek Trail. The trail system there provides a number of options, but a 2.5-mile loop hike traverses a constantly morphing, vegetated dune landscape with hidden creeks, imposing palisades of sand and shaded forest. 

And my final “how did I not know this already” revelation of the trip, was Novelli’s Crab & Seafood. It’s a place that is renowned for its crab chowder, but there’s much more. While technically a restaurant in the academic sense, the reality is that Novelli’s is a small shelter with some picnic benches located on a private dock. 

The Undiscovered Side of Florence, Oregon Jarastyle travelOwned and operated by a commercial fishing family, it’s not the kind of place you go to if you insist on consuming fish that are currently out of season or scoff at the idea of shifting menu offerings and tab totals based on availability and market price. But if the thought of enjoying locally sourced, in-season Oregon-coast seafood prepared with heart and soul speaks to you, then you’ll do quite well sitting on a bench at Novelli’s.

I suppose none of this should have come as a surprise, though. I’m familiar with the old adage, “The more you know, the more you realize you don’t know.” But that’s a wonderful thing to be reminded of from time to time. Especially when it comes in the form of travel revelation.

When you go

Florence travel information, eugenecascadescoast.org/regions-cities/florence

Siltcoos Lake Resort and Kayak Rentals, siltcoosriver.com

Exploding Whale Beach Camp, facebook.com/ExplodingWhaleBeachCamp

Novelli’s Crab & Seafood, novelliscrabandseafood.com

 

 

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Courtesy : https://nwtravelmag.com/the-undiscovered-side-of-florence-oregon/

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